During my studies I studied 3 important things/words, which are the base of everything:
COMFORT, TIMING, PATIENCE
These may not be the most important things for everyone, but how I see my horse, this is what I think.
The horse needs comfort, to understand if he/she had done something correctly.
Time is important for both of us. I have to give comfort at the moment when he answered correctly my "question", and we also need time to process the information.
Patience is the base. If you start to be angry or nervous, stop for a minute, take a deep breath and think if YOU asked the question wrong maybe. Don't punish the horse because of you were unable to ask the question clearly and definitely.
With Parelli-method I met in February 2011, when my riding trainer asked me if I want to be a “guinea pig”, to see if she can teach Parelli’s method correctly or not. We haven’t finished yet. We know the 7 games and when we’re in the mood, we play them. In July we got on with riding part, which is really difficult, but with endurance and patience everything is possible. For me it is really useful and interesting, because a totally new world is opening in my mind: communicating with them on their own language. It is not easy at all, but I really enjoy it! There’s no violence, only definiteness.
The 7 games
Our video about 7 games: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_GEc1uuk-0&list=UUp4x6DnT850oKC_os7gUhmQ&index=3&feature=plcp
Friendly game
This is the first game. We show the horse that we won’t hurt him/her, and time to time we can touch those points on his/her body, which he/she didn’t allow to touch before (e.g.: ears) My horse didn’t allow to touch his ears, but for today it is no problem. Of course I don’t badger it unnecessarily.
The other we show the horse that with the carrot stick we won’t hurt him/her, it is only the elongation of our arms, and he/she doesn’t have to be afraid of it, not even if we are whipping with it.
Porcupine game
By this game we change the horse’s opposition reflex. So at cactus-like pressure the horse has to yield. If he/she yields, the pressure ends. The timing is very important and very difficult. It needs lots of practice.
There are 4 steps, when we pressurize on the horse with the carrot stick: hair, skin, muscle, bone. At the first step there’s only a low pressure, and by 3 seconds the pressure increases. You have to keep up the pressure until the horse yields.
Driving game
Here we have zones. The first is the relaxation of the back legs, so the horse turns around his front legs, in front of us. It can be very useful, when a horse wants to streak off. I just look at his back, and he is in front of me in a moment.
The second is when we turn the horse around his back legs.
The third is the backside driving game, when we are standing in front of the horse and we makes him/her move backside. There are also 4 steps, but not the same as in porcupine game. First we just look at the horse very distinctly and confidently, and at the same time we lift the carrot stick. The next step is when we reciprocate the carrot stick rhythmically, and we extend the rhythmic movement in every 3 seconds. At the end we hit the rope as many time as the horse needs to take a step backside. Very important! If the horse takes a step, the pressure ends, the carrot stick stops! Timing is very important at all 7 games, and later on as well!
Yo-yo game
It is mostly like the backside driving game, but we don't use carrot stick, only the rope, which we move left to right. First we only stretch our arm, and we show the horse to "walk backside". If the horse doesn't moves where we want, we start to shake the rope left to right, very softly. Next we shake it more and more, until the horse takes a step backside. Everything is transported with the rope at first, because the little knots on the rope halter gives these instructions to the horse. Timing is important how I said just before!
Circle game
This game has 2 main tasks: the dispatch and calling. Important point is that the horse has to keep that pace we "told" him/her. Calling is connected to the backside driving game. When the horse has passed behind us, we turn in front of the horse, look at his bottom and we have to run backside. If the horse doesn't want to come, we can precipitate the rope on the carrot stick first to the ground, and then on the horse's neck. Later it can be also played without rope like other games, but in freedom part, we have to make the horse move, while he/she doesn't want to come to us.
Sideway game
Here we also have steps, but we give more soft signs. We are standing at the horse's side and we just look with the mother-in-law looking, then we start to move the carrot stick, at the beginning just a littlebit, and if the horse doesn't answer, we increase the pressure, and at the end we touch the horse with the carrot stick's rope.
It's very difficult to find the place where we have to stay so the horse could understand us. It depends on the horse itself.
Squeeze game
Most of the horses are afraid of the narrow places, and they don't really like to walk through them. This game is about it. First we are standing far from the wall (about 2 metres), and we send the horse between us and the wall. After he/she passed, we send the front part of the horse, and after that we look at the bottom of the horse, so he/she will stand next to the wall. And here comes comfort, which is one of the most important parts of the games!
After the 7 games ...
As the 7 games are over and we finished learning them, we can go on with riding part. I think most of us like it, maybe the most, but it may changes time to time ...
Of course before the riding part, we have to learn some exercises, like press down the horse's head and the entering of head. First from the horse's back we just stop and enter his head to our foot, then we fling the rope from one side to the other in front of the horse's head. Important! When he enter his head, we are not allowed to affect the horse with our legs and sitting. So we are loose. At the beginning we were just circulating :D Next comes the turning of the bottom.
If these exercises are OK, we can do the next, which is stop. First we raise the outside rope, if there's no answer, we start to pull it until the horse stops. If he stopped, the rope relaxes.
To be continued .. |